By Chris Ayliffe, Arctic Meta
Spoiler: Iceland is not a finished country. It is still hissing, shifting and occasionally reminding everyone that the ground has the occasional objection to the status quo (maybe the band, too). The Hengill volcanic system is one of the best places near Reykjavík to feel that restlessness without needing a helmet, a research grant or the confidence of a saga hero (though they help).
Set in South West Iceland, close to Hveragerði, Hellisheiði and Þingvellir, Hengill is a landscape of steam vents, hot springs, earthquakes, ancient lava, and mountain trails. It is wild, but not remote. That is part of the appeal. You can leave Reykjavík after breakfast and easily be walking through a steaming valley before lunch, which feels like cheating, but Iceland allows it.
And if you needed any further incentive, it also was a region heavily used in filming Game of Thrones. But, most importantly, the land is still very much awake. So let’s delve in.
What Makes the Hengill Volcanic System Special?
The Hengill volcanic system is not just a scenic mountain area. It is an active geothermal and volcanic region where heat from deep underground still shapes the surface. Steam rises from hillsides, warm rivers run through valleys and the ground carries a sort of quiet tension of a place that is very much awake.
This is what makes Hengill so rewarding for travellers. It gives you a clear view of Iceland’s living geology without needing to venture into the remote highlands and risking turning your rental car into a submarine. You can hike through Reykjadalur, drive across Hellisheiði, visit Hveragerði (there’s a decent food hall there) and add the area easily to a Golden Circle or South Coast itinerary.
Where Is Hengill in Iceland?
Hengill sits in South West Iceland, east of Reykjavík and close to the town of Hveragerði. The area stretches around the Hellisheiði mountain pass and towards Þingvellir, placing it between some of Iceland’s most visited natural regions.
From Reykjavík, the drive to Hveragerði usually takes less than an hour in good conditions. The route crosses Hellisheiði, where the scenery quickly changes from city edge to lava fields, open hills and rising steam (and often a very foggy mountain pass). In winter, this road can be affected by wind, snow and ice, because Iceland likes to, well, be Iceland.
You can easily visit it as a day trip from Reykjavík, pair it with Þingvellir and the Golden Circle (yes, I’m aware this sounds like I’m recommending an accompanying stop like a fine wine), or use it as a first stop before continuing east towards Selfoss, Hella and the South Coast. Travellers continuing that way often find our South Iceland lodges a natural base after exploring the Hengill area.
One of the best ways to experience Hengill, especially in summer, is not just to stop at Hveragerði and follow everyone else towards Reykjadalur like a polite geothermal sheep. Take Nesjavallaleið instead. This road cuts beautifully through the Hengill area, with wide mountain views, steam, and that wonderful Icelandic feeling that you have accidentally driven into a landscape painting with weather issues (to put it lightly).
Nesjavallaleið is especially useful if you are linking Reykjavík, Þingvellir, Nesjavellir and South Iceland into one scenic loop. In good summer conditions it is normally an easy 2WD drive, but always check road conditions first, because Icelandic roads enjoy changing personality without asking permission. In winter and rough weather, do not assume anything. The road may look innocent on a map, but maps do not have to deal with crazy snow.
Why Hengill Is Shaped by Earthquakes and Tectonic Force
Hengill lies in a complex part of Iceland’s volcanic landscape. The region is influenced by rifting, fault lines and geothermal systems, which means earthquakes are a normal part of the area’s character (so much so, there is an entire page focused on monitoring it). Most are small, but they reveal how active the land still is beneath the surface.
This is not something to fear when travelling sensibly. Iceland monitors its volcanic and earthquake activity closely, and official advice should always guide plans (no running and screaming encounters in the hills). The main point for visitors is that Hengill is not a dead landscape. It is part of the same restless system that gives Iceland its lava fields, hot springs, rift valleys and wonderfully dramatic travel brochures.
When you walk in Reykjadalur or look across Hellisheiði, you are seeing the result of deep heat, moving crust and water forced through volcanic rock (the mineral colours are astounding). In simpler terms, Iceland is running a natural boiler system under your boots and there’s no plumber on earth that can switch it off (maybe the Mario bros).
Steam, Sulphur and Geothermal Energy Around Hengill
Steam is the signature of Hengill. It rises from vents, slopes and geothermal fields, often drifting across the land like the opening scene of a Viking film with a healthier budget. Around Hveragerði and Reykjadalur, you can see how heat, water and rock combine to create one of Iceland’s most accessible geothermal landscapes (and it’s free!).
The smell of sulphur is part of the experience. Some visitors find it strange at first, like you left an egg sandwich in the fridge one week too many, but it soon becomes another piece of Iceland’s character. A little eggy, yes, but also proof that the land beneath you is alive and working.
Hengill is not only scenic, the area is also important for geothermal energy, especially around Hellisheiði. Iceland uses underground heat for power and heating, turning volcanic force into something practical by keeping my home warm without a scary bill awaiting. It is one of the rare places where the phrase “living with volcanoes” is a genuine part of the infrastructure.
Best Places to See Hengill’s Volcanic Landscape
Reykjadalur is the most famous place to experience Hengill. Its name means smoky valley (Reykja – smoke, Dalur – valley), which is pleasingly direct. The trail begins near Hveragerði and leads into a valley of hot springs, bubbling ground and a warm river where visitors can bathe (it can be a little crowded any time the yellow ball decides to make an appearance).
Hveradalir is another easy-to-miss stop close to the Ring Road, with mud pools, steam and sulphur activity right beside one of the busiest driving routes in Iceland. Many visitors thunder past on their way east, completely unaware that the landscape is bubbling away nearby like the earth has left a cooking pot on. It is a good reminder that Hengill does not always require a long hike. Sometimes the weirdness is right there, quietly smoking beside the road.
Hveragerði itself is worth a stop. The town is known for geothermal activity, greenhouses and steam rising close to everyday life. It feels like a normal Icelandic town that happens to sit above a giant underground kettle, and sometimes a shaky kettle at that.
Hellisheiði offers a broader view of the area. The road over the mountain pass gives you lava fields, open slopes and geothermal energy sites. On a clear day, it feels spacious and cinematic. In bad weather, it feels like the gods are testing your rental car paperwork.
Reykjadalur Hot Spring Valley and Hveragerði
Reykjadalur is the classic Hengill experience. The hike is popular because it offers a rare mix of accessible trail, geothermal scenery and bathing in a naturally warm river. It is not a hard walk in good conditions, but it still requires proper shoes, weather awareness and a little common sense, the latter of which is often a very underrated travel accessory.
Stay on marked paths. Geothermal ground can be fragile and dangerous, and stepping off trail near hot springs is a poor way to create a holiday story. Test the river temperature before bathing, as the water changes from place to place, and you don’t want to get burnt feet like Mr Sheeran did (…albeit that was at Geysir Geothermal area).
After the hike, Hveragerði is a good place for food, coffee or a slower wander. It also works as a useful stop before continuing towards Selfoss, Þingvellir or South Iceland. Before heading into more rural areas, it’s a good shout to stock up on snacks and fuel here (plus I prefer it to Selfoss).
Nesjavellir, Köldulaugagil and Hengill’s Quieter Trails
Image credit: Hansueli Krapf, via Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0.
Reykjadalur gets most of the attention, and fair enough, it does have a warm river, steam, sheep, and people slowly cooking themselves like travel bloggers in a soup advert. But Hengill is much more than one popular valley. The wider area around Nesjavellir is one of the most underrated hiking regions close to Reykjavík, with colourful geothermal slopes, lava fields, ravines, mountain views and far fewer people asking whether the river is “supposed to smell like that.”
Nesjavellir is especially worth exploring if you want Hengill to feel wilder without needing a serious highland expedition. The trails here move through heather-covered slopes, streams, lava, geothermal patches and open viewpoints over Þingvallavatn. In places, the colours and steam can feel like a small, more accessible cousin of Landmannalaugar, minus the long drive and the mild existential dread of highland roads (ahem, river crossings).
One particularly rewarding area is Köldulaugagil, where geothermal activity, colour and rough volcanic terrain make the landscape feel properly alive. It is not the same as strolling around a paved viewpoint and calling yourself an explorer. You still need proper shoes, layers and basic hill sense, but the reward is a much quieter side of Hengill that many visitors miss completely.
For stronger hikers, there are also routes up towards Hengill and Vörðuskeggi, as well as trails through Innstidalur. These are more demanding than Reykjadalur, but they show the area at full strength: steaming valleys, wet grassland, mountain passes, rocky slopes and views that remind you what Iceland is all about (ditch the kleina). Some routes can be wet well into spring, and snow can linger on higher or steeper sections, so this is not the place to freestyle your way through a poorly planned TikTok adventure.
There are also shorter family-friendly walks in the Nesjavellir area, including routes that work well for travellers who want a proper taste of Hengill without committing to a full mountain day. One lovely option is the area above Nesjavellir, where a roughly 5 km walk can give you open views, geothermal colour and even a waterfall along the way. It is the kind of place locals return to, which is usually a better endorsement than any glossy brochure promising “hidden gems” beside a packed car park.
Hiking the Hengill Area Safely
Hengill rewards careful travellers. The trails can be muddy, slippery and exposed, especially in winter or after heavy rain. The weather can change fast (like everywhere in Iceland), visibility can drop and steam can make the landscape feel more and more mysterious.
Wear proper hiking shoes, bring layers and check conditions before setting off. A charged phone is sensible, but it should not be your only plan. Icelandic weather treats overconfidence the way Vikings treated weak doors.
Winter visits need extra caution. Snow and ice can affect the Reykjadalur trail and the Hellisheiði road. Your rental car will almost certainly have studded tyres, but it might be better to also grab a pair of crampons for your shoes if you’re planning a frozen jaunt.
Summer is easier, but not effortless. The trails can still be wet, busy and fragile. The main advantages here are the improved visibility from the Midnight Sun, and the (assumed) clearness of the surrounding area beneath your feet.
Can Hengill Erupt Again?
Yes, Hengill is considered an active volcanic system (last known eruption was around 150 CE, or roughly 1,900 years ago), so future eruptions are possible. That does not mean visitors should expect lava during their trip. It means the area belongs to Iceland’s active geological story rather than its ancient museum section.
For travellers, the more relevant risks are usually weather, roads, hot ground and poor preparation. Official monitoring in Iceland is strong, and visitors should follow local advice if conditions change. The land may be restless, but it is not a guessing game.
This is part of Hengill’s appeal. You are visiting a living volcanic area where steam, heat and earthquakes still shape the land, and may cause an extra realm of excitement and story telling for your own trip.
Best Time to Visit Hengill
Summer is the easiest season for hiking Hengill. The days are long, the trails are more accessible and Reykjadalur is at its most inviting. It is also the busiest time, because apparently other people have also noticed that hot rivers in Iceland are enjoyable, go figure.
Winter brings a darker, more dramatic mood. The steam looks stronger in cold air, snow softens the lava fields and looks epic against the black rock, and the low light can be spectacular. The trade off is shorter daylight, icy trails and more road disruption. But, if you’re really lucky you may also get to enjoy the location with the first dances of Lady Aurora.
If you are a trail runner, Hengill also has another claim to fame: the Hengill Ultra Trail. The race takes place around Hveragerði and the Hengill area, with routes ranging from shorter distances to proper mountain punishment. For international runners, it is one of the more interesting ways to experience the landscape, assuming your idea of a relaxing Iceland holiday involves climbing volcanic hills for fun while locals cheerfully pretend this is normal behaviour.
Spring and autumn can be excellent for travellers who like quieter places and changeable weather. These seasons often feel raw and atmospheric, which suits Hengill well.
How to Add Hengill to an Iceland Road Trip
The simplest plan is a day trip from Reykjavík to Hveragerði and Reykjadalur. This works well if you want a taste of geothermal Iceland without a long drive.
A stronger route combines Hengill with the Golden Circle. Visit Þingvellir, continue through the volcanic and geothermal landscapes near Hengill, then stay in South Iceland or return to Reykjavík. This gives you rift valleys, hot springs and big scenery in one neat loop, expanding well beyond the typical tourist trail.
Hengill also makes a strong first chapter for a South Coast journey. Start in Reykjavík, hike Reykjadalur, stop in Hveragerði, then continue towards Hella, Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss and Vík. And, if you’re planning to head in the highlands during summer, Hengill can be a great palette cleanser from your city stay.
Where to Stay After Visiting Hengill
After a day of steam, mud and volcanic drama, a quiet countryside stay makes sense. Reykjavík is convenient, but rural Iceland gives the day a better ending. The skies open with no traffic in sight, and the land gets a chance to breathe a bit more.
Of course with the Panorama Glass Lodge you can add an extra treat to your stay. Our Freya, Alva, Odin and Thor Lodges all fit well into a route that continues east after Hengill.
West Iceland suits travellers heading towards Borgarnes, Snæfellsnes or Þingvellir. Our Heimdall and Njord Lodges offer a different base for travellers building a broader volcanic journey.
Families or small groups may prefer the Frigg Premium Family Lodge or the Skadi Superior Lodge, both of which give more space after long days outdoors which is a real treat for those weary feet and thirsty mouths.
Why the Panorama Glass Lodge Fits a Hengill and South Iceland Journey
The Panorama Glass Lodge works well after visiting Hengill because it keeps you close to the Icelandic landscape rather than shutting it out. After a day of hot rivers and restless earth, panoramic glass views, private hot tubs, and quiet surroundings feel like the right kind of ending.
Our accommodation overview is the best place to compare lodge styles, locations and guest options if you’re struggling to work out what is best for you.
Private hot tubs are a clear highlight after hiking Reykjadalur. Sauna access adds another layer of calm, and the sauna information explains how it works across each of our lodges.
Our South Iceland location is the most natural fit if your Hengill visit is part of a route towards the South Coast. Whereas our West Iceland location suits a wider route through Þingvellir, Borgarnes and Snæfellsnes. Either way, it lets the day end under open skies rather than hotel corridor lighting, which feels like a win for civilisation.
Hengill, Iceland’s Restless Land
Hengill is one of the best places near Reykjavík to understand Iceland as a living land. It has earthquakes, steam, hot springs, geothermal power and hiking trails that lead straight into the island’s volcanic character, allowing you a simple visit to the protagonist of the country’s story.
Most travelers will visit for Reykjadalur to take a dip in the warm water. But, I’d recommend you pause for a visit to Hveragerði if you want to get a sense for a traditional town in Iceland in the heart of geothermal activity. For the geothermal geeks amongst you, Hellisheiði power plant offers a tour where you can see how the strength of their operations daily creates mini-earthquakes (you won’t feel them).
Just visit with respect. Check the weather, the roads, stay on marked paths, and do not argue with Iceland when it is clearly in one of its moods. Hengill is restless, beautiful and slightly intimidating, which is exactly why it’s worth the visit.